大堂海岸 総括

23日から4日間、四国は高知県の大堂海岸にクラックを登りに行ってきました。
Right&FastのIHさんと、登山学校でお馴染みのAクラブのsugaさんと三人です。

四国の果てです。
名古屋から高速使って10時間、700kmの旅でした。

とにかくひとこと、

楽園 

※社会復帰ができなくなる恐れがあります。

100岩(中国・四国・九州編)の№87として掲載されており、「冬でも半袖で暑いくらい」と言う記述に半信半疑でしたが、全くそのとおりでした。
朝と夜はそこそこ寒いですが、昼間は日が照り、岩が真っ白の花崗岩なので照り返しがまぶしい。
半袖一枚で、はだしでビレイしていました。

魚介類を始め食べ物も美味しく、昼間は登り、夜は刺身を食べて、酒を呑むという生活を三日間やってきました。 社会復帰できなくなる寸前でした。

クラックをやるという奇特な方なら、是非一度は行くべき岩場です。
700km、10時間の道のりなんてへっちゃらに感じてしまうほどの楽園です。

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登ったもの
一日目
[モンキーエリア]
・スーパークラック 5.9
一直線に伸びる美しいクラック。実に快適! FL
・シャトル 5.9+
あさーいフィンガーですが、クラックと言うより縦カチスラブ? OS
・モンキールーフ 5.10a
錫杖「注文の多い料理店」3ピッチ目核心?みたいなルーフクラック!激おもしろい! FL
・ビックウェーブ 5.10b/c
フレークをトラバースしながら右上 フォローで二回も登りました。ドキドキです。
・モンキールーフ左 5.10a/b
ルーフ抜けたら、第一関節しかかからないフィンガーでレイバック。二回激落ち! 宿題

二日目
[帰れずエリア]
・熱風セレナーゼ(1,2P) 5.10a
フォローで登りました。2ピッチ通しで登ったのでアップアップ。でも内容は素晴らしい。
トポでは一つ星とありますが三ツ星でもいいくらいです。
懸垂でロープがスタックしました・・・

帰れずエリアのアプローチで一箇所渡渉ポイントがあるのですが、潮が満ちると渡れなくなり文字通り帰れなくなります。 押し寄せる波の音にヒヤヒヤしながらビレイしてました。
熱風・・・を登ったら一目散に退散。
今度来たときはもっと他のルートも登りたいです。

[お座敷エリア]
・フナムシ 5.9
クラックと思いきや大フレーク。レイバックのぼりで粘る。 OS
・黒潮 5.9
出だしのホールドが届かなくて微妙。カムも取りにくく、グレードの割には怖かった OS

三日目
[ハーバーエリア]
・レイバック 5.10b
フィンガー。出だしのムーブがとても微妙。C3キャメロット#00で激落ち!
激落ちにめげず、二便目で執念のRP
この日の力を使い果たす・・・
・アップダウンクイズ 5.10c
フォローで登りました。10台の後半になると体感的にぐっと難しく感じます。
同じトップロープ状態でもクレイジージャムの方が簡単に思えてしまいました。

四日目
[ハーバーエリア]
・アップダウンクイズ 5.10c
4日目の疲れた身体にはもう限界・・・

主なエリアは一通り回りましたが、大堂海岸最大の壁のエリア[最果てエリア]は来年に取っておくと言うことで・・・
看板ルート SECRET AGENT MAN 5.11a をトライすることを夢見てまた一年頑張っていこうと決意。

うしろ髪引かれながら淡路大橋を渡り、楽園を後にしました。

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この記事へのコメント

IH
2007年11月28日 12:27
お疲れ様でした。大堂海岸の良さを理解できる人がいて良かった!!これまで何人も誘ったけど、のこのこ付いて来た人は初めてです。
それにしてもクライミングに宴会、釣りとカヤックまで楽しかった~。
カジタニ
2007年11月28日 23:11
>IHさん
素晴らしい楽園に連れて行っていただきありがとうございました。 クラックをやっててよかったと思えた四日間でした。 来年もよろしくお願いいたします。
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