大堂海岸 総括

23日から4日間、四国は高知県の大堂海岸にクラックを登りに行ってきました。
Right&FastのIHさんと、登山学校でお馴染みのAクラブのsugaさんと三人です。

四国の果てです。
名古屋から高速使って10時間､700kmの旅でした。

とにかくひとこと、

楽園　

※社会復帰ができなくなる恐れがあります。

100岩（中国・四国・九州編）の№87として掲載されており､「冬でも半袖で暑いくらい」と言う記述に半信半疑でしたが､全くそのとおりでした。
朝と夜はそこそこ寒いですが､昼間は日が照り､岩が真っ白の花崗岩なので照り返しがまぶしい。
半袖一枚で､はだしでビレイしていました。

魚介類を始め食べ物も美味しく､昼間は登り､夜は刺身を食べて、酒を呑むという生活を三日間やってきました。　社会復帰できなくなる寸前でした。

クラックをやるという奇特な方なら､是非一度は行くべき岩場です。
700km､10時間の道のりなんてへっちゃらに感じてしまうほどの楽園です。

登ったもの
一日目
[モンキーエリア]
・スーパークラック　5.9
一直線に伸びる美しいクラック。実に快適！　FL
・シャトル　5.9+
あさーいフィンガーですが、クラックと言うより縦カチスラブ？　OS
・モンキールーフ　5.10a
錫杖「注文の多い料理店」3ピッチ目核心？みたいなルーフクラック！激おもしろい！　FL
・ビックウェーブ　5.10b/c
フレークをトラバースしながら右上　フォローで二回も登りました。ドキドキです。
・モンキールーフ左　5.10a/b
ルーフ抜けたら、第一関節しかかからないフィンガーでレイバック。二回激落ち！　宿題

二日目
[帰れずエリア]
・熱風セレナーゼ(1,2P)　5.10a
フォローで登りました。2ピッチ通しで登ったのでアップアップ。でも内容は素晴らしい。
トポでは一つ星とありますが三ツ星でもいいくらいです。
懸垂でロープがスタックしました･･･

帰れずエリアのアプローチで一箇所渡渉ポイントがあるのですが､潮が満ちると渡れなくなり文字通り帰れなくなります。　押し寄せる波の音にヒヤヒヤしながらビレイしてました。
熱風・・・を登ったら一目散に退散。
今度来たときはもっと他のルートも登りたいです。

[お座敷エリア]
・フナムシ　5.9
クラックと思いきや大フレーク。レイバックのぼりで粘る。　OS
・黒潮　5.9
出だしのホールドが届かなくて微妙。カムも取りにくく､グレードの割には怖かった　OS

三日目
[ハーバーエリア]
・レイバック　5.10b
フィンガー。出だしのムーブがとても微妙。C3キャメロット#00で激落ち！
激落ちにめげず、二便目で執念のRP
この日の力を使い果たす･･･
・アップダウンクイズ　5.10c
フォローで登りました。10台の後半になると体感的にぐっと難しく感じます。
同じトップロープ状態でもクレイジージャムの方が簡単に思えてしまいました。

四日目
[ハーバーエリア]
・アップダウンクイズ　5.10c
4日目の疲れた身体にはもう限界・・・

主なエリアは一通り回りましたが､大堂海岸最大の壁のエリア[最果てエリア]は来年に取っておくと言うことで・・・
看板ルート　SECRET AGENT MAN　5.11a　をトライすることを夢見てまた一年頑張っていこうと決意。

うしろ髪引かれながら淡路大橋を渡り、楽園を後にしました。

Comments

[IH]

お疲れ様でした。大堂海岸の良さを理解できる人がいて良かった!!これまで何人も誘ったけど、のこのこ付いて来た人は初めてです。
それにしてもクライミングに宴会、釣りとカヤックまで楽しかった～。

[カジタニ]

>IHさん
素晴らしい楽園に連れて行っていただきありがとうございました。　クラックをやっててよかったと思えた四日間でした。　来年もよろしくお願いいたします。

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